Bay View Hotel Revamps Ristorante Barolo

The regal Bay View Hotel presides over Aptos Station with the authority of a building that has been there for a very long time. Built in 1870 — five years before the railroad — the yellow mansion is the oldest hotel in Santa Cruz County, and the oldest running hotel in California. It even survived being moved 150 feet west in 1953 and two major earthquakes without losing its charm.

It is a fascinating experience to step inside the old hotel, and a real treat to stumble upon authentic Italian cuisine cooked by the owner himself, Giovanni Guerisoli. The ground floor of the hotel is home to the rambling dining room, bar, and wrap-around sun room of Ristorante Barolo. It’s like stepping back in time and stepping into Italy.

Guerisoli learned to cook in Florence and Rome, where he grew up. 

“In the beginning when I was young I made bread with potato with my grandmother, every two weeks we made six big loaves of bread, and biscotti,” said Guerisoli.

As a young man, he travelled around Amsterdam, Germany and London working in various kitchens before coming back to the United States (he lived here until he was 2-years-old) and opening Manicomio Caffe, then Il Pirara and later Caffe Manicomio in Capitola Village. In total he has owned 14 restaurants. 

After ten years, Guerisoli is excited that Ristorante Barolo will see some culinary changes, with the addition of the young chef Miguel Manriquez, who recently left his post as Executive Chef at Caruso’s to help Guerisoli. 

“Giovanni and his brother Artilio taught me everything,” said Manriquez, who started cooking 14 years ago.

In fact, Manriquez was working as a dishwasher at Il Pirara when the Italian brothers took him under their wings.

“He’s really passionate in the work, and that’s important for me, because if you’re not passionate, don’t go to work doing that. You have to have passion in what you do,” said Guerisoli. 

The two have been working for the past few weeks on a new dinner menu, which will debut Friday, Aug. 12. Guerisoli is streamlining the menu choices, and has decided to lower a few of the antipasti prices to encourage bar goers to try them. Most exciting for both chefs is the addition of homemade pasta to the menu, which they make fresh daily. 

A Gnocchi di Patate, with radicchio and gorgonzola is a rich new menu addition, as well as the Raviolini al Turtufo Nero, homemade ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese, porcini and button mushrooms in a truffle cream sauce. The ravioli is also made to order, and the al dente wrappers, exquisite filling and subtle truffle flavor make it a special and out-of-the-ordinary dish.

"It's a menu that is simple, but complete. I am confident that people will like it," said Manriquez.

The menu features seven antipastis, five insalatas, seven pasta fatti en casa and a handful of secondis. Guerisoli also promised specials, like the exquisite grilled eggplant stuffed with gorgonzola. He also encourages guests who want an old favorite, like the popular pasta puttanesca, to ask for it. 

If you are just going for a glass of wine and maybe a light snack, try ordering a couple different antipastis. The Carpaccio de Bue e Arugula is great as well as the Caprese Con Prosciutto (made with a fine quality buffalo fresh mozzarella) and the Polenta Frita, a creamy polenta round topped with sauteed mushrooms. This, Manriquez serves next to a dollop of sweet chili jam, and the flavors together are divine.

Ristorante Barolo is best visited when you have time to sit, relax and enjoy the ambiance. The dining rooms are adorned with Guerisoli’s antique sword collection, there's an intimate sun room decorated with stained glass and the back patio is surrounded with roses.

It is not the typical American restaurant where you can expect to eat and leave in 30 minutes. Rather, it's a place where you feel like a guest of Guerisoli and his wife, Cristina Locke, who both make appearances in the bar and dining room to check on their guests.

“For the moment, we are going to make changes poco a poco, first is the dinner menu. Later we are going to make a new lunch menu, and in time, a few more changes,” said Manriquez. 

Guerisoli estimated the new lunch menu will be ready in just a couple more weeks.

Ristorante Barolo is inside the Bay View Hotel at 8041 Soquel Drive, Aptos. 831-688-8654. Dinner is served from 5 p.m. until 11 p.m.